REWIEW: YASAKA AT PARK HYATT KYOTO – A MASTERPIECE OF TASTE, CRAFT AND SPIRIT
While visiting Kyoto at the beginning of August, we had the immense pleasure to be invited by Kichul Lee, Assistant Director of Marketing Communications at Park Hyatt Tokyo, for an exclusive dinner at YASAKA, the signature restaurant of Park Hyatt Kyoto. This invitation turned out to be one of the most memorable dining experiences we have ever had—a perfect balance of refined flavors, theatrical cooking, and the serene beauty of Kyoto’s Higashiyama district.
From its opening in October 2019, YASAKA restaurant at Park Hyatt Kyoto has been captivating guests with an innovative mix between Japanese teppanyaki and French culinary refinement. The philosophy here is simple yet profound: to use premium local Kyoto ingredients in a way that honors tradition while allowing for modern expression. Every element—from the produce to the plating, from the setting to the service—works in harmony to create an atmosphere where time slows down and dining becomes an art form.
The Setting – Dining Inside a Kyoto Painting
The restaurant offers stunning panoramic views of the historic Yasaka Pagoda, also known as the Tower of Yasaka. In daylight, the pagoda rises proudly above the rooftops of the preserved streets, framed by the surrounding mountains. At night, the same view transforms into something magical—the pagoda glowing against the deep Kyoto sky, its presence grounding the contemporary elegance of the dining room in centuries of history.
YASAKA’s interior mirrors this balance: clean lines, warm lighting, natural wood accents, and seating arranged around an open teppanyaki stage, where the chefs perform their craft in full view. This open kitchen is not for show alone—it allows diners to witness the precision, timing, and respect for ingredients that are at the core of Japanese culinary tradition.
A Tailored Dining Experience
Being a vegetarian in Japan can sometimes be a challenge, as many classic dishes rely on seafood or meat-based broths. But here, the chefs embraced it as an opportunity to create something special. The seven-course menu was thoughtfully adapted so that my partner could enjoy the full original version, while I experienced vegetarian alternatives that preserved the spirit and balance of each course. This adaptability reflects a deeper philosophy: that great dining is not about rigid adherence to a menu, but about crafting a personal experience for each guest.
The Evening Begins – Champagne and Promise
The moment the first glass was poured—a sparkling Ruinart Champagne—I knew we were in for something exceptional. Ruinart is considered one of the finest champagnes in the world, and its appearance here set the tone: everything that followed would need to meet that same level of excellence.
Chefs Shinta Nishigaki and Masaya Fujihara guided us through the evening, cooking each course with meticulous care. Their movements were precise yet fluid, each gesture purposeful. This was more than cooking; it was performance, ritual, and skill intertwined.
The Courses – A Journey Through Kyoto’s Summer
Fromage Frais, Caviar, Cucumber
The first bite was a whisper of elegance: creamy fromage frais paired with the delicate salinity of caviar and the cool, crisp bite of cucumber. It was refreshing, light, and perfectly balanced—a gentle opening act that awakened the palate without overwhelming it.
Kamiseya Summer Venison, Zucchini Flower, Blueberry
For my partner, this course was a celebration of Kyoto’s northern Tango region, where summer venison reaches peak flavor. Paired with zucchini flower and a subtle blueberry accent, it played with contrasts—earthy richness and floral freshness. My vegetarian version replaced the venison with seasonal vegetables but kept the structure and artistic presentation intact. Visually, it was a still life on a plate.
Conger Eel, Kamo Eggplant, Green Yuzu
Conger eel (hamo) is a classic Kyoto summer delicacy, prized for its delicate flesh and intricate preparation. My dish substituted Japanese mushrooms for the eel but preserved the pairing with Kamo eggplant—a round, meaty variety unique to Kyoto—and the aromatic brightness of green yuzu. The combination was an avalanche of flavors, at once deeply rooted in the land and bursting with freshness.
Tilefish, Manganji Pepper, Yamato Toki
Tilefish was prepared with expert timing so the skin was perfectly crisp while the flesh remained tender. The sweetness of Manganji pepper (a mild Kyoto variety) and the herbal note of Yamato Toki elevated the dish. Watching the fish sear on the hot plate, hearing the gentle sizzle, was a reminder of the importance of sound and rhythm in Japanese cooking.
Ohmi Beef Tenderloin, Wasabi, Japanese Sake ‘Inemankai’
For my partner, this was the highlight—a cut of Ohmi beef, one of Japan’s three most celebrated wagyu varieties, paired with freshly grated wasabi and a sake chosen for its ability to amplify the meat’s umami.
For me, the chefs prepared Kamo Nasu eggplant, Dengaku-style—grilled and glazed with a miso sauce so rich and smoky. This was the course where my vegetarian adaptation felt not like a compromise, but like a triumph.
Kyotango Koshihikari Rice, Hairy Crab, Corn, Chorizo
A deeply comforting dish, celebrating the rice of Kyotango, famed for its texture and sweetness. My vegetarian version, without crab and chorizo, allowed the rice and corn to shine, highlighting the natural sweetness of summer produce.
Amane Muskmelon, Mint, Lime
The dessert was a study in restraint: juicy, fragrant muskmelon paired with mint and a whisper of lime. It was clean, bright, and refreshing—a final note that lifted the palate after the richness of the preceding courses.
Service – Grace and genuine Warmth
The staff at YASAKA embodied the Japanese ideal of omotenashi—anticipating needs without intrusion, delivering service with genuine warmth. Every plate was presented with a brief explanation, every glass refilled discreetly, every question answered with both knowledge and enthusiasm.
When we thought the evening had reached its end, we were surprised with house-made muffins for the road: chocolate and truffle. The flavor combination was unexpected—sweet, earthy, slightly savory—and oddly addictive. It was the kind of gesture that turns a great meal into a lasting memory.
The Philosophy in Every Detail
YASAKA’s approach is not about chasing avant-garde culinary trends or overwhelming diners with complexity. Instead, it’s about refinement, balance, and harmony—qualities that mirror Kyoto itself. Every course told a story of seasonality, locality, and craftsmanship. The use of Kyoto-grown vegetables, regional meats, and seafood tied the meal to its place in both geography and time.
About Chef Kentaro Koyama
Chef Kentaro Koyama expressed his thoughts about creation at Signature Restaurant Yasaka, saying, “Combining the refined aesthetics and delicate techniques of French cuisine with the seemingly primitive yet ingredient-maximizing teppanyaki, where we cook the ingredients from scratch right in front of the guests, may appear challenging. However, when viewed from another perspective, it becomes an opportunity to create an entirely unprecedented dining experience. My goal is for our team to unite, surpass the guests’ expectations in a delightful way, and lead them into an exciting and unexplored realm of time and space.”
Koyama was born in 1989 in Kumamoto Prefecture, a region rich in nature and blessed with a variety of seasonal ingredients year-round. From a young age, he enjoyed picking and eating fresh produce like tomatoes, okra, and spinach from his grandmother’s small garden, giving him the good fortune of growing up surrounded by flavorful ingredients. His mother, a nutritionist and skilled cook, regularly prepared and transformed various ingredients, and watching her in the kitchen deepened his fascination with the magic of cooking.
Koyama, who began his career as a chef at a French restaurant in Tokyo in 2008, realized his dream of moving to France in 2013. Over the next five years, he gained experience at several restaurants across the country, including the Michelin three-star restaurant “Maison Lameloise” in Burgundy. After returning to Japan, he became the head chef at the French restaurant “French Monstar” in Tokyo, where he was awarded three toques as a chef for the first time in the Gault & Millau 2022 guide.
Chef Koyama introduces new menus at Signature Restaurant Yasaka, highlighting the abundant local ingredients of Kyoto. He describes his approach as deeply respectful of classic culinary traditions, while also showing flexibility and creativity that are tailored to each dish and ingredient. Indulge in a one-of-a-kind dining experience where theatrical teppanyaki harmoniously blends with delicate French cuisine.
Final Thoughts – A Kyoto Memory to Keep Forever
I have dined in many upscale restaurants around the world, but only a handful have delivered an experience as complete and resonant as YASAKA. This is a place where the food, the view, the service, and the spirit of Kyoto are inseparable.
Whether you are celebrating a milestone, seeking an unforgettable date night, or simply wanting to immerse yourself in Kyoto’s cultural and culinary artistry, YASAKA offers more than a meal—it offers a memory. And for us, it will remain one of the defining highlights of our time in Japan.
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