REVIEW: GALLE, GRACE AND THE CHARLESTON- A SOULFUL RETURN TO SRI LANKA’S FORT
The Charleston Hotel is a 1924 Art Deco residence transformed into a nine-bedroom boutique hotel. Located at the southern tip of the UNESCO World Heritage site Galle Fort, the hotel offers breathtaking views over the fort and the Indian Ocean.
After a long journey from Bucharest to Colombo via Dubai, I landed in Sri Lanka—a place that, through my third visit, feels oddly familiar. There’s something about the energy of an Asian country that you can sense the moment you step off the plane. The warmth of the place, the smile of the people, the sun playing through the windows, the excitement of my upcoming 10 days in this amazing country that I find it to be one of the most beautiful in the world.
I was welcomed by my driver, Thusara, I purchased a SIM card (because, let’s face it, what’s life without internet these days?), put my bags into the car, and we were off on the three-hour drive to Galle.
This was my second time in Galle; my first visit was in the summer of 2017 when I stayed at Tamarind Hill Hotel, just outside the fort. This time, I had the pleasure of staying at The Charleston Hotel, a boutique gem nestled within the historic Galle Fort. I had been in touch with Ivo Richli, the Group General Manager at The Charleston Galle Fort (A Creative Leap Property), Sri Lanka, who graciously invited me to experience the hotel for a couple of days.
As we drove through banana plantations and bustling towns, I reflected on my first impression of Galle—a place where time seemed to stand still. I was curious to see how it had changed since my last visit. The country had faced challenges in recent years, including COVID-19 and political turbulence, which had affected tourism. However, Sri Lanka is making a comeback, and tourists have returned in large numbers, supporting the growth and opening of new boutique hotels.
We arrived at the hotel on a Friday around noon, greeted by the sun high in the sky and a lazy breeze drifting across the fort. The property, an old colonial house from a century ago, has been beautifully restored and converted into a hotel that opened just last year.
The property is a 1924 Art Deco residence transformed into a nine-bedroom boutique hotel. Located at the southern tip of the UNESCO World Heritage site Galle Fort, the hotel offers breathtaking views over the fort and the Indian Ocean.
The restoration of the property was a three-year undertaking, using only the finest materials and craftsmen. The clean lines and sweeping curves of the original architecture are mirrored in the interior design, exemplified by select furniture and finishes. Honeyed woods expertly joined by local artisans replicate original doors and shutters, while Carrera honeycomb mosaic floors seamlessly meet brass inlay terrazzo. These elements contribute to the beautifully curated tropical Art Deco aesthetic that defines The Charleston.
The rooms are a sanctuary of comfort and style. Each room is designed with attention to detail, featuring sleek metals and warm woods, punctuated by classic furniture pieces and luxurious linens. The accommodations offer a quiet elegance, allowing guests to enjoy views of the historic streets or stunning sunsets over the Indian Ocean.
I was welcomed with curious looks and large smiles by the reception staff, got to meet Ivo who gave me a quick tour of the property, had a quick shower and off for a refreshment at the famous Charlie’s Bar and Bistro. At the top floor of The Charleston Hotel, Charlie’s Bar & Bistro, named after Charles Hulse, a resident of Galle Fort since 1974, offers a decadent pool and terrace—perfect for taking in the sights of both the enchanting old city and the captivating Indian Ocean.
The bistro serves European and South Asian fusion fare throughout the day. Breakfast includes à la carte, Asian, or vegetarian options. Guests can enjoy dishes like gnocchi with warm beetroot salad and jackfruit samosas, along with creative cocktails such as the lemongrass gin offering. The ambiance is chic, with blue velvet banquettes, marble-topped tables, and brass details adorning the space.
It’s mid-afternoon, the sun still shines strong, but my SPF 50+ is doing its job. Time to explore the fort. Oh, how I’ve missed the cobbled streets of Galle Fort—the hum of life echoing between old stone walls, the lazy rhythm of the sea breeze threading through centuries of history.
Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988, is one of the best-preserved colonial-era fortresses in Asia. Originally built by the Portuguese in the late 16th century and later extensively fortified by the Dutch in the 17th century, the Fort represents a fascinating blend of European architectural influence and South Asian tradition. Walking these streets feels like stepping into a living museum: baroque churches, old Dutch houses, spice warehouses turned boutiques, and ramparts that once kept out invaders now welcome strollers, dreamers, and sunset chasers.
As I made my way toward the iconic Galle Lighthouse—built by the British in 1939—I noticed something truly heartwarming: scores of children, all dressed in pristine white uniforms, wandering the ramparts. It looked like a procession from another world—hundreds of students from nearby state schools, out for their afternoon walk.
Later I learned that their uniforms are provided through a partnership with the Chinese government. It’s a poetic sight—children of today walking the same paths where colonial soldiers once stood watch, their laughter replacing the echo of cannons.
And then comes the most anticipated moment of the day: sunset. Locals and tourists alike gather on the ramparts, finding their perfect vantage point. Children take daring leaps into the ocean from seaside rocks, met with cheers and gasps from the crowd. A man passes by with a monkey on one shoulder and a cobra in a wicker basket, performing for a few rupees. Nearby, Buddhist monks in saffron robes, nuns in white habits, and Catholic priests stand together in shared reverence. There is a sacredness to it all—different faiths, different lives, all watching the same golden orb slip beneath the sea.
That evening, I realized something profound—the atmosphere inside the Fort hadn’t changed since my last visit in 2017. Time truly seems to pause within these walls. The colonial architecture, the graceful decay, the solemn silence of dusk—it all still whispers tales from another century. It made me smile. It made me stay longer on that wall, breathing it in.
I didn’t set an alarm the next morning, thinking I’d sleep in. But at precisely 5:00 AM, a new kind of wake-up call arrived—peacocks. Yes, peacocks have replaced the roosters in Galle Fort. Their unmistakable cries pierce the early morning quiet, signaling the rise of the sun. I learned from a local that a pair of peacocks once flew in from Yala National Park and decided to stay. Now, nearly 50 of them roam freely. In Hindu mythology, the peacock is the vehicle of Skanda, the god of war and son of Shiva, so no one dares shoo them away. At night, they perch high on palm trees or rooftops, safe from predators. In the morning, they reclaim the streets like proud, feathered royalty.
Early mornings became my favorite part of the day. I’d lace up my shoes and head out for a run along the ramparts, trying to beat the heat. By 8 AM, the humidity is already thick. I was pleasantly surprised to see so many locals doing the same running, stretching, practicing yoga. Some looked like members of a local running club, moving together in synchrony each morning. Men and women of all ages, committed to their health, chasing the sunrise with every step.
Breakfast at Charlie’s Bar & Bistro was always worth waking up for. It’s an à la carte affair with a distinct farm-to-table Sri Lankan approach. I fell in love with the Sri Lankan omelet—fragrant with spices—and the granola served with creamy curd and toasted nuts. The espresso? Bold and brilliant. The service? Impeccable.
Days were spent wandering through the fort. Galle is famed for its gem trade, and with over 100 jewelry shops, temptation is everywhere. I remembered strolling through these same shops during my first visit in 2017, making mental notes. This time, I fulfilled the promise I made to myself—I found a delicate gold bracelet adorned with blue sapphires, a keepsake of this timeless place.
The fort is more than just shops and cafés—it holds stories. The National Maritime Museum, housed in a Dutch warehouse, offers insights into Sri Lanka’s rich seafaring history, while the Historical Mansion Museum is like stepping into the home of an old Ceylonese merchant. Every corner, every doorway in Galle has a story to tell.
In the late afternoons, Charlie’s Bar becomes the place to be. Tourists trickle in, cocktails in hand, waiting for the sun to paint the sky. Twice a week, the bar hosts live music—local bands playing everything from jazz to soul—and soon, the terrace turns into a dance floor under the stars.
If you’re lucky enough to spend more than a few days in Galle, venture outside the Fort walls. Just 15 kilometers away lies The Fortress Hotel, a beachfront property where you can purchase a day pass for around 40 euros. It includes beach access, a pool, and lunch. Feet in the sand, salty air on your skin, waves crashing in rhythm—bliss.
My stay at The Charleston Hotel was a perfect blend of history, luxury, and hospitality. The hotel’s impeccable restoration, elegant design, and attentive service made it a memorable experience. Whether you’re exploring the historic streets of Galle Fort or relaxing by the rooftop pool, The Charleston offers a sanctuary where you can unwind and immerse yourself in the charm of this UNESCO World Heritage site.
After a few soul-nourishing days, it was time to say goodbye. For now. Galle has a way of pulling at your heartstrings—the Charleston Hotel made sure of that. What a beautiful hotel. What a special place. What an unforgettable energy.
I’ll return. Again.
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