VOICES! Where Giants Walk: Katharina Raaben and the Fight for Coexistence
As Head Naturalist at Uga Ulagalla and founder of the Elephant Research Centre in Sri Lanka, Katharina Raaben stands at the intersection of wildlife protection, community engagement, and sustainable tourism. Her philosophy is simple yet uncompromising: a good guide must also be a good conservationist.
At dawn in Africa’s Kruger National Park, Katharina Raaben once watched a rhino step quietly out of tall grass, its silhouette glowing in the early light. That moment — still vivid years later — marked the beginning of a journey that would take her across continents and into the heart of one of Asia’s most urgent conservation challenges.
From tracking dangerous game in Africa to addressing human–elephant conflict in Sri Lanka’s Anuradhapura region, her work blends field instinct, scientific research, and human empathy.
In this conversation, Katharina Raaben reflects on the lessons learned in the wilderness, the elephant who inspired a movement, and why the future of conservation depends not only on protecting wildlife — but on reshaping how we travel, coexist, and care.
Your career has taken you from on-foot guiding in South Africa’s Kruger National Park to leading conservation initiatives in Sri Lanka. What inspired this transition, and how has it shaped your approach to wildlife protection today?
What I learned over the years is that guiding and conservation go hand in hand. A good guide should also be a good conservationist. There is no difference between Africa, Sri Lanka, or any other place in the world.
When you first enter a wilderness area without any prior experience and have your first sightings and encounters with wildlife, everyone is drawn to and focused on the “big” animals, and quite often your main aim is to get a good picture to take home. Of course, who does not want to see a lion, leopard, bear, elephant, or even a whale?
I remember very well when I first came to Africa as a guest and dreamed of seeing a wild rhino, and I did. It was a beautiful morning and the sun was just rising. The rhino was in the high grass, and at first we only saw the tips of its ears poking out of the grass. We patiently waited and hoped that the rhino would move into a more open area so we could get a better view.
Until today, this very first game drive and this rhino sighting are still among the most memorable sightings for me personally, maybe also because it was the start of the journey that led me to where I am today. The rhino stepped out of the higher grass a bit later. Calm, quiet, and peaceful. The sun was still not fully up, and a few oxpeckers were busy on the back of the rhino. The fine hairs covering the rhino’s body reflected the early morning sunlight and created a shining frame around the animal. The rhino was fine with our presence and continued peacefully with its morning feeding routine.
But as a good guide and conservationist, it is important not only to allow the guest to experience these sightings by just looking at the animal. People need to be aware of the vulnerability of these fine ecosystems. It is the guide who creates the experience and has a lasting impact and impression through his or her interpretation.
It is about all living beings, big ones and small ones, flora as well as fauna. Everything plays and carries a major role. Nothing and no one is there for no reason. A tiny ant is equally important as a massive elephant. Understanding how delicate everything is and what the threats are is vital. These complex ecosystems are not just there as an available paradise that you can book at any time convenient for you for a holiday or an afternoon safari.
The habitats, their inhabitants, and the existence of many animals are in danger due to various reasons, and it takes quite a bit to ensure they have a chance of survival and can be preserved. We can call ourselves very lucky and privileged that we still have the chance to see these animals in the wild. But what it takes to protect them, and to ensure that they are hopefully still around when the next generation of guests arrives, is what I learned and experienced in Africa firsthand.
When I came to Sri Lanka, it was the lush greenery and dense forests that captured and triggered my interest first, before I even discovered the whole abundance of wildlife. Uga Ulagalla was introduced to me as a beautiful property, but more focused on culture and heritage, not really a wildlife destination, as a lot of people said. We proved them very wrong later on.
When I visited Uga Ulagalla for the first time, it was not the Walawwa or the villas that impressed me and made me stay. It was the lush vegetation and the lakeside with its big and beautiful trees surrounding the property. The green energy spread made me feel calm, good, and happy. I stayed.
Not long after, we discovered a lot of animals inside the property, loris, fishing cats, otters, and so much more. It did not take long until the first elephant appeared on our trap cameras, just touching the boundary of the hotel property. I saw this exact same elephant just yesterday, five years after I first met him, and I can say that he is the inspiration.
Just like the rhino that I encountered, he had a story to tell, and he is also fighting to survive and somehow find a place where he can do what elephants are supposed to do. The reality of the human-elephant conflict caught up with me quickly. Elephants and humans are suffering, and this is what our work focuses on now.
As I said at the beginning, a good guide should also be a good conservationist. It is about passion and responsibility.
Having accumulated extensive field experience in dangerous game areas, what skills or philosophies from your guiding days continue to influence your leadership at Uga Ulagalla?
To become a guide, it takes more than just accumulated knowledge from books. This is something I learned the hard way when I was still a student. I was always a very focused and disciplined learner and passed all written exams among the best. Still, it was very different when you were actually out in the field.
A guide needs to have many different skills, from being an entertainer, a host, a storyteller, a listener, an interpreter, a communicator, a travel planner, an accountant, an emergency first responder, and much more. Some skills you can learn, others come with experience and practice. As a guide, you develop over time.
First of all, you need passion, and you need to enjoy what you are doing. Most of the time, if you as the guide are enjoying the experience, your guests will also enjoy it. The pressure you put on yourself will usually negatively affect the experience. Of course, as a guide you are also under pressure. You have to deliver, and guests have expectations. But being out in the field, you can rarely make any promises or guarantee any sightings.
The good thing is that there is always something to see and to talk about. This is where a good guide can turn an activity into an experience. It is very important to understand that these two things are not the same.
I always encourage my team to use their senses and to be aware of their surroundings. The key word is situational awareness. It helps you stay safe and also experience the environment you are moving into, to the fullest. Quite often, I am aware of the presence of specific animals long before I actually see them by using my senses.
A musty smell might indicate an elephant bull nearby. The bark of a deer might give away the location of a leopard. Muddy water flowing downstream might indicate the presence of bigger animals further upstream. Tracks in the sand, fresh dung, broken branches, bird calls, there is so much happening.
But most people have lost the ability to hear, read, smell, see, or feel the environment. So the key is to reconnect and be part of the environment.
What first drew you to Sri Lanka’s ecosystems and wildlife, and what continues to motivate you in your role there?
I met my husband during my time working in Africa. He is Sri Lankan and was also guiding in Africa at that time. After he returned to his home country, I came to Sri Lanka for a holiday to meet him, of course. His family owns a small piece of land in the mountains, and he invited me to spend the weekend there with him. It is an old cardamom estate bordering the cloud forests of the Knuckles Mountain Range.
We went on our first hikes, and the cloud forest got me. It is like a journey through time, and you feel taken back into a Jurassic world. The pygmy cloud forest with its unique vegetation, the ferns, the mosses, the orchids, and the incredibly diverse and endemic wildlife made our plans change quite quickly. The weekend trip ended up being a two-week stay, and the decision was made that I would move to Sri Lanka. That is how it started.
Since then, I have been exploring the island, and even though I have been here for seven years, I still have not visited all places. There is so much to see. I found my way to Ulagalla about five years ago, and I am still here. From the first day until now, we have made so many discoveries, and for me the main discovery has been the elephants.
Of course, the elephants have been here for a very, very long time. But again, it was about seeing the bigger picture. Besides being privileged to observe these beautiful animals just outside the property, we could not overlook the difficulties that both people and elephants are dealing with. The human-elephant conflict is real.
I remember nights during my first days and weeks at Ulagalla when nonstop fire crackers were going off all around the villages throughout the entire night. Elephants on their daily journeys for food, and villagers trying to keep the elephants away to protect their crops. Both sides were trying to do the minimum to survive, food and a home. It was, and still is, so sad, and no solution for a peaceful coexistence exists so far.
The habitats are already gone, and elephants are trying to survive in the last small green patches that remain. But to go from A to B, there is no other way than through areas inhabited by humans. I think that our work is really important, and even though our impact is local, I am very proud that we have an impact. Knowing that we are doing the right thing keeps me motivated day by day.
You founded the Elephant Research Centre during the uncertainty of the pandemic. What challenges and opportunities came with launching such an ambitious initiative at that time?
I always like to say that the ERC was meant to be, and at no stage was it planned to become what it is right now. The pandemic gave us the space and time to focus. For us humans, the pandemic caused a standstill and affected our lives in a way we would have never possibly imagined before.
For all other living beings except humans, it was a time like any other. In fact, I think that many animals and areas even benefited from our absence. The ERC is one of the small positive things that came out of the pandemic, and it has continued to grow ever since.
The ERC has produced important findings on elephant migration patterns. How are these discoveries shaping conservation strategies both on the estate and in the wider Anuradhapura region?
Understanding migratory patterns is one of the main keys to developing effective conservation strategies. Elephants migrate in search of food, water, and social interaction. These routes change with the seasons and due to the presence and or interference of humans.
Our work started mainly with field research and extensive data collection. Now, as we are approaching the fifth year of our studies, the data we have collected is slowly starting to speak. We can see patterns, returning individuals, repeating behaviors, and also recognise changes.
The dry and wet seasons, with their higher and lower water levels, are major factors influencing elephant movements throughout the year. This goes hand in hand with the availability of food provided by the natural environment and also, involuntarily, by humans during harvest season.
The presence of humans may be a threat to elephants, but it does not drive them away. It seems that confrontation with humans has become part of their lives and is a risk they are forced to take, given the very limited options left for elephants to move through the landscape.
Human-elephant conflict remains a major issue in Sri Lanka. From your perspective, what are the most effective ways to encourage peaceful coexistence between communities and wildlife?
It is often said that the human-elephant conflict remains a major issue. That said, elephants have been here much longer than most people on the island. There was a time when elephants and humans shared this land. Sri Lanka has a long history with elephants, and they are deeply connected to its culture and identity.
The long-lasting human-elephant conflict has, in fact, only become a serious issue in recent decades. Somewhere along the way, we lost the ability to coexist. An immense increase in the Sri Lankan population, large-scale development projects, deforestation for farmland, changes in agricultural practices, and the management of water resources have reshaped the island and destroyed the foundation of coexistence.
Today, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to reverse what has happened. Land that was taken cannot simply be given back. Protected areas are too small and often only offer temporary shelter for elephants before they are forced to move on again. To protect elephants, we must also protect and support human communities and reduce the number of incidents between elephants and people.
Everyone respects elephants, but no one wants an elephant in their own backyard. This is where things change, and this is where we need to take action. We must create safe areas where elephants and humans do not pose a threat to each other, and where communities affected by elephants receive real support.
At Ulagalla, we have started setting up communal fencing that keeps people safe within village areas while allowing elephants to continue roaming freely outside.
How does involving local communities in research and education strengthen long-term conservation success?
The involvement of local communities is vital because they are the people who share their land with elephants and are directly affected by their presence on a daily basis. Often, local communities know far more about elephant behaviour, patterns, and movements than researchers who spend months or years in an area, as these communities have been living alongside elephants for generations.
Involving local people is therefore extremely beneficial when developing conservation strategies and solutions to mitigate conflict. Any strategy must be beneficial for both sides. At the same time, education and awareness spreading within local communities are equally important.
The majority of people have developed a fear of elephants and see them as enemies or threats that need to be removed. The unity and coexistence that once existed are largely gone. While elephants have no choice but to adapt and endure the situation, humans expect fast solutions and naturally prioritise their own safety and livelihoods. This is something we may not be able to change entirely, but it is the reality we must start from.
The moment we are able to create tangible benefits for local communities, elephants will benefit as a second step. Slowly, step by step, and little by little, meaningful change can begin to happen.
What moment or breakthrough at the ERC has been most rewarding for you personally?
At the beginning of the interview, I mentioned an elephant, the very first one that appeared on our camera traps. Without him, our work and the ERC might never have started.
Since January 2021, I was drawn to this elephant, and it took me two years before I managed to catch a glimpse of him in daylight. During those first two years, I spent countless hours outside the property at night, often sitting for hours on top of a tree, just trying and hoping to see him. Many nights, nothing happened and I did not see an elephant at all. But then, sometimes, suddenly he would appear.
Those few seconds when he passed by, hardly making a sound and nearly invisible, are unforgettable. His white tusks would shine under the moonlight, and I knew he had survived another night and was on his way home to rest, unaware of what he had experienced during those hours. We connected, but never interacted. There were moments when he stopped under the tree, or moments when our eyes locked, but there was no fear, no aggression, and no further interaction. We simply accepted each other’s presence.
This same elephant became a victim of the human-elephant conflict in 2023, when he was shot by a trap gun in his front leg. From the first day I saw him, he carried scars and gunshot wounds all over his body. His outer appearance told the story of his daily fight for survival in this landscape. But I had never seen him in a condition like this.
He spent the entire day standing in the lake, using the water to take weight off his legs and find some relief from the pain. When he came out of the water, he was badly limping and could hardly move forward. I was heartbroken and deeply worried that he would not recover, and that his time might be coming to an end.
From that day onwards, we worked closely with local authorities and the local veterinary team on a daily basis. The treatment took five months, with many ups and downs and many tears, until he finally recovered.
He is still around today and remains a regular visitor to Ulagalla. He is not only the inspiration behind our work here, but he also carries a message. He has become an ambassador for his own species and for the reality of the human-elephant conflict in Sri Lanka.
Sustainability is central to Uga’s philosophy, from renewable energy to local sourcing. How do these initiatives directly support biodiversity and community resilience?
Our hotels are defined by their rich heritage, natural environment, and thriving local communities. Offering an authentic stay and meaningful experiences to our guests is only possible by cherishing and preserving these very elements.
Sri Lanka is beautiful as it is, a gem that has retained much of its authenticity, a charm that many other countries have already lost. The country is shaped by its people; the local communities are, in essence, Sri Lanka itself. At Uga, we aim to support these communities, share our success with them, and grow together.
Guests are invited to visit the Elephant Research Centre and learn about Sri Lankan elephants firsthand. What do you hope visitors take away from this experience?
I want guests to understand, experience, and be aware. People need to know about the struggles and issues. The guests that come to our research center today will define the future of tourism and also the future of our elephants in Sri Lanka. Our guests carry a huge power and impact with them—mostly unknowingly. An ethical and sustainable approach, and the way traveling and experiencing Sri Lanka is curated to the guest, will shape the future of this island. It is not too difficult to show an elephant to guests during a stay in Sri Lanka, but to add additional information, adding this little bit of extra insight and being able to tell a story about maybe this specific elephant is something the guest will take home—something they will think about and that also might influence their decisions and actions.
Can you share a story where community collaboration made a tangible difference to wildlife protection or local livelihoods?
The main challenge within the human–elephant conflict is the coexistence of local communities and wildlife. Not long after we set up the ERC, we started the community fencing project and erected our first community fence close to the property. We regularly participated in village meetings to stay up to date during the construction of the fence, and afterwards we continued meeting with the local community to stay informed.
I was sitting in the community center with around 30 villagers, listening and discussing the issues that matter in the small village of Pittala Konderama, home to around 70 families. It had been roughly a year since we completed the construction of the community fence to keep elephants out of the village. The villagers attending the meeting were very positive about the fence, saying that incidents had dropped to nearly zero over the past year.
But in every community, there is always one neighbour who does not pull in the same direction as the others. We were discussing that particular person who never attends to his duties, never keeps his section of the fence clean, and does not attend a single meeting. One villager stood up to say something. I still don’t speak Sinhalese and did not understand. He seemed nervous speaking in front of the village, but at the same time I could feel he was saying something very close to his heart, and it moved me even before I understood his words.
My colleague translated: the man said that for the past ten years he had been trying to plant manioc (cassava) in his garden. He was never able to harvest it, as the elephants would always eat it before he had the chance. He explained how grateful he was that, after ten years of unsuccessful effort, he was finally able to plant, grow, harvest, and actually eat his home-grown manioc together with his family. It really touched me, and I knew we had done something good and were on the right track.
What are your long-term ambitions for the Elephant Research Centre and conservation at Uga Ulagalla?
The Research Centre at Uga Ulagalla is operating, and we are already achieving a positive impact within the local area and community, which is great. I wish for our impact to grow further and to find more solutions to mitigate the human–elephant conflict together with the local community, which will be beneficial for the whole island and all elephants. The management of UGA has been very supportive and is always open to new ideas and approaches, which leaves me very confident when looking into the future of the ERC.
What advice would you give to young conservationists or naturalists looking to build a career in sustainable tourism and wildlife protection?
Go for it! Conservation and sustainable tourism overall have a bright future, and they are so much needed. The industry needs young, passionate people who want to create change and preserve what we have. Never let anyone tell you that you are too small or that no one cares about what you do. Every tiny change makes a difference and might create a spark toward something big.
Finally, what does “travel with purpose” mean to you personally?
To travel with purpose means traveling to places and experiencing situations that fulfill me. It is about moments, conversations, and meeting people rather than chasing locations and ticking things off a to-do list. Rather than simply seeing things, I want to experience them, to immerse myself in the present moment, become part of it, and leave a lasting impact.
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