REVIEW: THE KAISEKI JOURNEY AT MIZUKI, RITZ-CARLTON KYOTO
In Kyoto—the city where every season writes its own poetry—the most refined stories are told not in words, but in courses. And nowhere is that art more exquisitely practised than at Mizuki, the signature Japanese restaurant of The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto, where kaiseki ryōri—the centuries-old tradition of multi-course haute cuisine—is elevated to a quiet form of theatre.
Located along the tranquil Kamogawa River and framed by views of Higashiyama’s temple-dotted hills, The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto is as much a sanctuary as it is a gateway to Japan’s cultural heart. From its serene gardens to the gentle rhythm of tatami-lined corridors, the hotel distills the spirit of a traditional ryokan into a contemporary retreat, placing you within easy reach of Kyoto’s 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites while surrounding you with stillness.
Mizuki, the hotel’s acclaimed Japanese restaurant, is a world unto itself—an intimate gallery of gastronomic artistry offering four distinct culinary experiences: kaiseki, sushi, tempura, and teppanyaki.
It was here, at the gracious invitation of Tomomi Kaneko, Marketing & PR Coordinator at The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto, that I experienced a true vegetarian kaiseki—a personalised menu that reimagined this venerable culinary tradition without losing a single note of its seasonal elegance. My partner embarked on the full traditional kaiseki journey, allowing us to explore both interpretations of the same ancient form, side by side.
The Kaiseki Philosophy
Kaiseki ryōri (会席料理) is more than a meal; it is an ode to seasonality, balance, and craftsmanship. Born from the humble fare served at Zen Buddhist tea ceremonies, it evolved over centuries into an aristocratic dining artform. Each dish is carefully orchestrated to highlight shun—the precise moment when an ingredient is at its peak—and to reflect harmony between nature and the diner.
A typical kaiseki might include anywhere from seven to fourteen courses, each showcasing different cooking techniques: raw, grilled, simmered, steamed, fried. Presentation is as integral as flavour—plates are chosen to echo the season, garnishes mimic natural forms, and the sequence of dishes follows a rhythm that feels almost musical.
For a vegetarian in Japan, kaiseki presents both a challenge and an opportunity. The reliance on fish-based dashi and seafood delicacies is deeply woven into the cuisine. Yet at Mizuki, the chefs embraced the challenge, creating a bespoke vegetarian menu that preserved the structure, pacing, and artistry of kaiseki while honouring my dietary preferences.
We began with the celebratory sparkle of Taittinger Champagne and Kyoto-sourced sparkling water, a crisp overture to the evening’s sensory journey.
先付 – Appetizer
Stems taro, noodle squash, winter melon, grated yam with sudachi jelly
This opening course was a study in delicacy—ribbons of noodle squash, pale green cubes of winter melon, and stems of taro arranged like an abstract painting. The grated yam’s unusual texture—silken yet slightly elastic—was entirely new to me, its subtle flavour brightened by the citrus-sweet tang of sudachi jelly. A quiet beginning, designed to sharpen the senses.
御椀 – Soup
Kamo-eggplant, green beans, shiitake mushroom, plum paste, yuzu
The broth, clear yet profoundly savoury, carried the earthiness of shiitake and the gentle perfume of yuzu. The Kamo-eggplant dissolved in the mouth, while a tiny sphere of plum paste offered an unexpected burst of sweet-sour brightness. This was refinement distilled into a bowl.
中皿 – Middle Dish
A seasonal salad with sea salt and olive oil
After the warmth of the soup, the crisp salad was a cool, cleansing interlude—simple, bright, and essential in resetting the palate before the richer courses ahead.
焼八寸 – Delicacies
The heart of the kaiseki, this course arrived as an intricate mosaic of miniature creations:
- Boiled Manganji pepper in dashi
- Mushed pumpkin with milk and dashi jelly, dusted with yuzu zest
- Black sesame tofu with spinach, radish, and Japanese mustard
- Red konjac with wheat gluten and Kujo-leek in mustard vinegar sauce
- Soy milk skin with salt and olive oil
- Grilled salmon with yuzu
Each element felt like a scene from a seasonal landscape. The black sesame tofu was sublime—silky, nutty, and unexpectedly rich—while the soy milk skin had a fragile, almost lace-like texture. The grilled salmon was smoky, tender, and lifted by the aromatic sharpness of yuzu.
天麩羅 – Tempura Dish
Sweet potato, corn, Manganji pepper, eggplant, shiitake mushroom, lotus root, myoga
If I’ve ever underestimated tempura, Mizuki cured me of it forever. The batter was so thin and crisp it shattered at the lightest touch, preserving the pure essence of each vegetable. The sweet potato was the star—soft, sweet, and comforting—while the corn kernels burst with summer freshness. The lotus root added crunch; the myoga, a subtle ginger-like brightness.
食事 – Rice Course
Seasoned rice with lotus root and corn, red miso soup, Japanese pickles
A return to comforting tradition. The rice was subtly sweet, the lotus root lending a crisp counterpoint, the miso soup deep and warming. Pickles brought just enough acidity to close the savoury arc of the evening.
デザート – Dessert by Pierre Hermé Paris
A final, elegant indulgence—light yet complex, a marriage of Parisian finesse with Japanese restraint.
My Partner’s Kaiseki Highlights
While my evening was devoted to vegetables at their seasonal peak, my partner’s menu embraced the treasures of land and sea: steamed sea urchin, three varieties of sashimi, and grilled cutlass fish among the standouts.
The high drama was the Wagyu beef shabu shabu—thin, marbled slices swirled in simmering water for seconds, then dipped into sesame sauce or ponzu. The experience was both theatrical and deeply Japanese, elevating the act of cooking into ritual.
A Meal That Becomes a Memory
Dining at Mizuki is not merely eating; it is participating in Kyoto’s most intimate performance. Every gesture, from the silent presentation of a dish to the pacing of each course, reflects centuries of refinement.
The vegetarian kaiseki they created for me was not an adaptation—it was an original work of culinary art, respecting tradition while speaking directly to my palate. Each dish was a fleeting season, each bite a reminder that the best meals are those that engage every sense.
When I stepped back into the Kyoto night, the Kamogawa River whispering beside me and the moon casting silver light over temple rooftops, I understood: kaiseki is Kyoto itself—ephemeral, precise, and unforgettable.
THE RITZ-CARLTON, KYOTO
Address: Kamogawa Nijo-Ohashi Hotori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, Japan
Website: www.ritzcarlton.com/kyoto
Phone: +81 75-746-5555
GETTING THERE
- From Osaka Kansai Airport (KIX): 1.5 hours by car
- From Itami Airport (ITM): 1 hour by car
- From Kyoto Station: 20 minutes by car or taxi
STAY
134 guestrooms and suites inspired by traditional ryokan, many with river or garden views. Rooms pair modern luxury with tatami floors, shoji screens, and artisanal Kyoto crafts.
DINE
Mizuki offers four distinct Japanese culinary experiences—kaiseki, sushi, tempura, and teppanyaki. Kaiseki menus change with the seasons and must be booked in advance, particularly for vegetarian adaptations.
Hours: Mon, Thu–Sun: 11:30 AM–3:00 PM, 5:30 PM–9:00 PM. Closed Tue–Wed.
DO
Stroll to nearby UNESCO World Heritage Sites like Kiyomizu-dera, Nijo Castle, and Gion’s geisha district. Enjoy morning walks along the Kamogawa River or explore Higashiyama’s narrow lanes.
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